Build 22. Dry Sump Oil Tank
The 420R is a dry sump car which means the oil is not stored in the engine and actually stored in another tank outside of the engine instead, so this was the next thing to be fitted. As mentioned earlier, you need to have the primaries installed in order for this to be installed (otherwise you will be removing this to make room for installing the last primary!)
This is relatively straight forward to install, but a few bits of prep are required before hand. Firstly get all the bits out that you need for this step, I found all the bolts and nuts in the "Misc Fasteners" pack as shown below. The P-Clips were in the pack with all the other cooling parts in an unlabelled bag. You will also need to find the temperature sensor (which for me was in a white box labelled "AP Motorparts" and I had two of them). There is also a metal dip stick with a nice Caterham 7 etched on the top, this came from a bag labelled "mechanical" for me. You will need some PTFE tape for this step too.
The first job was to remove the grub screw and replace with the temperature sender. I wrapped PTFE around the thread (about 12 times, the video shows less, but I did it again!) to ensure that it would be a nice tight fit. This then simply screws into the slot where the black grub screw was. I also took the time to put PTFE tape on the bottom drip valve as pointed at in the picture below, just in case oils wanted to leak through there too!
Once the prep was done I attached the P-Clips to the chassis rails, for the SV build it looked like they would have to go on the slightly smaller diagonal cross members, unlike the manual instructions. I'm sure this will be fine and if not, Caterham will let me know on the PBC (Post Build Check). The larger central rail is thicker and there was no way I was going to struggle to fit a bolt on there when the diagonals would keep the oil tank in the same place!
Then it was a case of lowering the tank into place, and tightening up the lower bolts to the p clips, this would then pull the tank into place and I could then measure the distance between the top bracket and the chassis. The manual suggests to place washers to pad this gap out, I settled on 5 washers which I had laying about and this equated to about 7-8mm in total. Then you can put the top bolt in with the split washer and normal washer and tighten it all up (I went for a nice 20Nm which seems to be my default for anything not specified). The blot easily went into it's slot on the chassis, and went in far enough for me to be happy with the 5 washers (I did test with 4 washers but it left approx. 1mm gap between the washers and the bracket, and I was reluctant to over stress the weld on the tank).
Timelapse
